Into the boonies and the hot water of Bagby

Three of the four new tubs on the lower deck. Photo by Ivy Davis

Three of the four new tubs on the lower deck at Bagby Hot Springs. Photo by Ivy Davis

There was a distinctive moment when I realized my aunt had lied to me (in fact, there were many): The drive to Bagby Hot Springs was much longer than an hour. The ride itself was beautiful, even though we almost drove off the winding and bending road around the Clackamas River.  Word to the wise, go the speed limit.

My GPS calculated the drive at an one hour and 20 minutes from Damascus, but adding in the time it takes to hike up to the actual hot springs, it was 1.7 miles uphill. Imagine having to include the additional time it takes to fill up one of the three sizes of hot tubs – they varied in filling time: from 30 minutes to three hours. Believe me, this is no speedy outing.

When you first walk up to the hot tub spot, you get a view of five stalls referred to as “private rooms.”  Each stall once had a bench and a bathtub that looks very similar to a canoe from Disney’s, “Pocahontas.” Of the three stalls I explored, each was different. The first stall’s canoe/bathtub’s drain had been completely rotted out, leaving a huge gaping hole staring down into the dark drain. The second stall was missing a bench, replaced by upside-down buckets. The third stall looked good, including the dozen tea lights and glow sticks a previous user or two had left behind. I stole the tea lights… The small baths used different sizes of wood to plug their drains, along with the piping hot spring water, working as an on/off switch. The winning touches for the stalls were: the open roof, that allowed stargazing; the signs on the door that read: “clothing optional;” and the tampons used to plug holes in the shared walls of the stalls.

Continuing on… walking down a bit, you get a view of what looks like a small pool with a very slow water spigot. That’s cold water that you’ll need to cool down the hot spring water. The larger tubs my aunt had said are meant for five to eight people, are really meant for a lot fewer. These tubs look to be sitting in a gazebo-like structure called the “open deck” or “lower deck.” There is a large, round tub, and three smaller, oval-shaped tubs that look similar to distillery barrels. Each tub is spaced about two feet apart, with stairs leading up into it. Fortunately, for my group, we did not have to fill our tub. Our neighbors in the round tub had to fill theirs, which took 3 1/2 hours. The spring water in the tub was refreshing. I would be lying if I said I didn’t almost fall asleep; it was the slimy, water-logged wood that caused my feet to continue to slip on, that kept me awake.

The Bagby hot tubs have a long history. The original bathhouse, now called lower deck, burned down in 1979, then was rebuilt. Bagby was then remodel in 2011, during which three salvaged canoe tubs were replaced with the oval barrel tubs we sat in. There also was a third area 100 yards south of the private and lower deck. The “upper deck” had a larger, circular tub that we didn’t get to visit.

On our way back, there were a few moments worth mentioning. One of our hot tub neighbors was completely naked, not fit, and handing out bong hits. Secondly, while hiking back, we turned all our lights off while crossing a fairly large bridge. The stars were amazing with the sound of a waterfall rushing under our feet. Lastly, a tree along the path was painted purple with sparkles all over it, which looks awesome in the dark. The drive back, however, was long and tiring. I fell asleep – I recommend camping, if possible.

In sum, the tubs were somehow a perfect storm of a beautiful, scenic, and relaxing, along with: dirty, slimy, and a little bit trashy.

Tips for future visitors: Leave early, so you can hike up and fill your tubs in the light. Bring lots of flashlights for a walk back in the dark. Candles bring a nice touch, because there is no lighting at the facilities. Don’t leave anything important in your car and watch your stuff – in the dark things get lost  or stolen easily. Bring the right attitude; although, it’s a diverse mix of people, everyone is kind and sharing. There were actual valley girls, hippies, and old stoners making a colorful group that enriched the experience. Don’t be surprised if someone is naked. Cigarettes, alcohol, and illegal substances are prohibited, but the site is hardly checked – most likely due to the 1.7-mile hike up to the tubs. However, there is a park ranger. Entrance is technically $5 a person, but I’m not saying if I paid or not.

I give the adventure a 2.7 out of 5. I would go back, but not often.

Adam Elwell, head editor, enjoying the hot water of Bagby for the first time.

Adam Elwell, head editor, enjoying the hot water of Bagby for the first time.

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